Leg 4: Part 4

The wind continued to ease all day and I have to say that evening’s watch I shall remember always, 7-8knots boat speed, clear full moon, sorts & t shirts and a good girlie book, coz I had read all the ones where men shoot each other.

By mid morning the wind had died to 15knots and being the last day at sea and harnesses a new found enthusiam onboard, we set the kite. In 6000 miles, it had been up twice before, once leaving La Manga on the fast day and once leaving the Cape Verdes. On both ocassions it took longer to repair, than it was up. Whilst discussing the pros and cons of adding another furler for the No.1 over maybe looking for a smaller kite, nature took over. It started with a gossamer kiss by the kite to the forestay, which opened a 1 foot square hole, then five minutes later same thing, another hole, but not content with that it then collasped and the top end disintergrated. Rob looked crestfallen, don’t worry we won’t need it again. Why’s that then? Wekk coming out of the Cape Verdes when we had the drone, we got great photos, so unless you change the colour of the hull, we won’t ever need to put it up again, simple.

For the last 100miles we had no wind at all, which should have been nice and easy, just motor in. No chance our recurring deisel issues reared their head again and ove rthe course of the next 24hours the engine would run for an hour or so then die. i changed filters, bypassed stuff, ran from a jerry can and probably every other thing you can think of to do with a deseil system to no avail. Some time I would think I had found the smoking gun, only for it to die again. I’m gutted that we will have to leave the boat not working for the moment, but I am out of ideas as to a solution.

We made out landfall in Boccas del Toro and as we passed between the 1st two islands which guard the anchorage, everything became good with the world. This place folks is paradise, all the things we had hoped of the Carribean, Panama has it in spades. Nautal beauty, quaint, cute, undeveloped, un crowded, just absolutely fantastic.

Rob’s agent for his building project pottered up to us shortly after we anchored and after all the greatings were made, he told us that it wouldn’t be a great idea to go ashore until we had been cleared by customs. So he was dispatched ashore and returned with 5 of the biggest nad best pizzas I have ever seen. Needless to say the red wine was broken out, glasses were raised, emptied, refilled and emptied. All onboard filled with an immense satisfaction of a job well done.

Bang on time at 9.30am the next morning, Customs, Immigration, Port authority and some other dude, who I think just liked boats all turned up. Incredibky poilte, couteous and welcoming. They were full of apologies, as the building opposite us, which was to be the new HQ of the officals was not finished yet. The process was a bit disjointed. For me though, this was perfect, it tallied with all the ocean voyages I have read about from yester year, about customs coming onboard as opposed to the modern traisping around different offices. I was slightly miffed that they did not suggest that a bottle of whiskey would be in order.

Once done and all the formalities completed, we shifter our berth 5 miles to Rob’s holiday development. This was pure Swallows and Amazons, threading our way through Mangrove islands, with no charts, glancing off little sand banks, a touch astern then on our way again, just awesome.

Rob’s place, just makes you envious, I cannot image a more perfect location or project, The property is fronted by a horse shoe bay about the size of a Tescos carpark, or as I pointed out a 100berth marina. We went stern to a rickety jetty, then all went ashore to look around. The idea fior the resort is as a rain forest retreat with spa, resturant etc. Accomodation is purpose built 2 story cabins built high up in the trees and very exclusive. 3 of the cabins are complet and landscaping is just beginning to clear the restaurant site.It is boys own adventure stuff, tropical but no snakes, fertile with every imaginble type of tree, but not so dense that moving around is difficult. Still to come is the construction of 4 cabannas, local style cabins which sit on stills ove rthe water, magical. He still has a lot to do but you can understand that this is a retirement project and once he is there almost full time, little foot paths and seating areas and possibly a marina will grow by increment. Its a long project but one that many of us would love.

I’m writing this in the cockpit, finding it very hard to concentrate, everywhere you look, there is water taxis buzzing along or a yacht moving or just nature, its mezmerising.

Andras & Konrad who are spending another month here decomissioning the boat, had to go off on a magical mystery tour this morning to get Visas. The dude that issues them locally is on vacation. Rob, Vicky & I have a 3 day grace period and need to fly out tomorrow. Vicky & Rob are ashore at the moment trying to sort flights. Having been away so long, it sounds like all our credit cards are well passed maed out, so a little bit of international finace is being conducted. It appears that we are off to Colombia in the morning before a flight to Europ. Cool by me, my passport is beginning to look awesome.

Its hard to describe how gut wrenching it is for this trip to be over, one of those things you just wish could go on forever, but I guess even I have to make a living at some stage.

For Vicky and I, it’s been a long over due break together and both feel bring it on in terms of what Greece throws at us next. I know this will not be the only time I am in Panama, firstly it is so good and secondly because there is serious talk of continuing into the Pacific in 3 years time.

Thanks for keeping up with our story, I hope its been enjoyavble.


Boccas del Toro


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